Pointed & Polished Episode 3: Patience and Healing for Radiant Nails

Barehands.us
@bareyourhands

Nail enthusiasts come to my community every day with the same problem. Typically, I enter their world right after they have developed painful allergic reactions to their nail products. They’re in pain, they are in denial, they are desperate for some answers and for some sort of miracle product that’s going to both solve this problem and cover up the horrific damage at the same time.  That initial panic that I am greeted with puts me in a position to calm people down on the daily.  As much as I try to reassure them that everything will be okay, it’s still hard to accept.

I very often think to myself about how I can help reframe our thinking to a healing mindset.  I know that for so many, the idea of giving up those bi-weekly appointments is gut wrenching. I know this because I also lived this sad realization myself and it took me a very long time accept.  I really felt like I lost part of myself - I mean, c’mon, it’s just nails, right?! Anyone in this position knows that it’s a lot more than that. I know for me, it was like losing a big part of myself, who I was, where I chose to spend my precious time and money, and what I actually wanted to do for a living at one point. 

At the time of my discovery, I was attending night school to obtain my manicuring license. The pressures of keeping up with my classmates had me diving into trials and error of products. My nails and skin were absolutely miserable and I was becoming sicker each day. My skin, inflamed in rashes across my entire body, my eyes swollen and sagging, and my fingers so sensitive that even washing my hands or typing on a keyboard was painful. I sent myself to urgent care twice within 60 days. Emotionally, I was wrecked.  So I finally gave in.

It was a fairly easy decision to make the change at that point. I needed to change my whole mindset and approach to nails. I decided that my health was non-negotiable, no matter what. No matter how my nails, no matter what my beauty school instructed me to do,  and no matter what my future of doing nails held.

I started healing by nails bare or sometimes with just a little polish and started using a quality cuticle oil everyday. My health improved, my swollen and sagging skin cleared up and snapped back, my nails were looking pink and healthy again. I learned to love changing out my polish on my continuously growing natural nails.
It wasn’t until my mindset changed that I saw the change.  Putting my health first was all it took. I became heavily interested in nail health, nail product chemistry, and how our nails work. I now spend my time supporting others in this emotional journey, and hope someone can learn something along the way. I love my long, strong, natural nails. I love nail polish and taking care of my clients' nails.

One of the best things you can do for your nails is use a quality nail oil everyday.  In my podcast interview with Suzanne Shade, creator of Bare Hands Dry Gloss Manicure kit, we went all in on the benefits of nail oil for our skin and nails. I appreciate how Suzanne continues her research into all benefits for our nails and skin and ties them into her beautiful product.

So I thought I’d leave you with some brief simple knowledge on how our nails absorb these beneficial oils. I hope that this inspires you to shop for a quality oil or even make one on your own.

Our nail plate is made up of layers of keratinized cells (keratin) that sit in very organized layers - much like bricks stacked in a wall. These walls need some flexibility to be less prone to breakage, so the stacked layers need to slide against each other as it grows outwards and upwards. The nail is naturally maintained by lipids and lubricants that the nail bed produces and penetrate the small spaces in this structure from the bottom up. Basically, imagine these natural oils flowing through the cement lines that are between our stacked bricks, keeping them lubricated.  If the nail plate doesn’t have enough of these lubricants, then it will easily break. Wearing nail polish can help keep those natural lubricants trapped inside, and those who wear them bare, a good quality nail oil will help maintain these oils and lubrication, preventing them from becoming brittle.

Renowned nail scientist Doug Schoon has extensively researched the interaction between oils and the nail plate. According to Schoon, the molecular size of an oil is determinant of its ability to penetrate the nail. He notes that oils with smaller molecules not only enter the nail plate more effectively but also have the potential to carry other beneficial ingredients along with them.
So in order for a substance to penetrate our nail plate from the outside-in, they must be able to slip into these grooves of our brick wall. 

Small molecular structures,  such as acetone and water penetrate the nail plate very easily. We notice this when our nails appear dry and cracked or translucent and bendy after a quick soak.

Most oil structures are too large and cannot actually penetrate the nail plate and may simply sit on top of the nail and skin. These can still be beneficial as it forms a protective layer and keeps the moisture we desire in.
Long chain molecules like those of jojoba oil are long and thin and can better easily fit into those grooves and aid in the lubrication of the nails internally.  If you apply these oils regularly then they will be pushed further down into the layers.  This also helps protect your nail from water penetrating your nails and doing further damage. Some oils can even penetrate through nail polish - so be sure to oil often!

When searching for or creating your own nail oil, the beneficial penetrating oils are: Jojoba oil, avocado oil, and squalane.  Pair these with a carrier oil for that protective barrier and you’re ready to go!

I would encourage you to allow yourself to update your mindset and to make your health non-negotiable now - Before you end up in urgent care. But I have a strong feeling you will learn to love your nails and love doing nails in your own way. 

For more inspiration on jump starting your nail healing process, check out the latest episode of the Pointed & Polished Podcast.

If you are ready to commit to healing and health in your nail journey this year,  leave a comment or reach out with any questions. I’m here for you!